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	<title>Comments on: Anyone have a radiant barrier in their attic?</title>
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	<link>https://habitablezone.com/2012/07/29/anyone-have-a-radiant-barrier-in-their-attic/</link>
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		<title>By: TB</title>
		<link>https://habitablezone.com/2012/07/29/anyone-have-a-radiant-barrier-in-their-attic/#comment-16816</link>
		<dc:creator>TB</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jul 2012 03:10:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://habitablezone.com/?p=19075#comment-16816</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on the design of your house.&lt;/p&gt;

Some houses have their insulation on the attic floor (your ceiling), and the attic is at the exterior temperature.  Heat leaks in the attic walls don&#039;t matter in this case.  In fact, such attics are often vented.

Other houses incorporate the attic as interior space, and the insulation is mounted on the underside of the roof instead.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A lot depends on the design of your house.</p>
<p>Some houses have their insulation on the attic floor (your ceiling), and the attic is at the exterior temperature.  Heat leaks in the attic walls don&#8217;t matter in this case.  In fact, such attics are often vented.</p>
<p>Other houses incorporate the attic as interior space, and the insulation is mounted on the underside of the roof instead.</p>
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		<title>By: Jody</title>
		<link>https://habitablezone.com/2012/07/29/anyone-have-a-radiant-barrier-in-their-attic/#comment-16815</link>
		<dc:creator>Jody</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:39:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://habitablezone.com/?p=19075#comment-16815</guid>
		<description>After living here for twenty some odd years, I ventured into the upstairs attic because our air conditioner has been very unpredictable lately. I was mildly...no QUITE  miff to see that the upper most west wall has no insulation. Mad at myself, my husband, and mad at anyone that has had to be up there for something..like the cable guy and  no one said a word, if they even noticed. You can see daylight through the boards for chris sakes. 

Now I probably will import shedding geese for their down.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After living here for twenty some odd years, I ventured into the upstairs attic because our air conditioner has been very unpredictable lately. I was mildly&#8230;no QUITE  miff to see that the upper most west wall has no insulation. Mad at myself, my husband, and mad at anyone that has had to be up there for something..like the cable guy and  no one said a word, if they even noticed. You can see daylight through the boards for chris sakes. </p>
<p>Now I probably will import shedding geese for their down.</p>
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		<title>By: ER</title>
		<link>https://habitablezone.com/2012/07/29/anyone-have-a-radiant-barrier-in-their-attic/#comment-16811</link>
		<dc:creator>ER</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:19:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://habitablezone.com/?p=19075#comment-16811</guid>
		<description>is probably a simple extractor fan to pull out the hot air between the roof and the ceiling.  Most attics are already well supplied with vents for input. I&#039;ve got an ordinary window fan jury rigged into the attic access port in the garage, the exhaust goes into the garage, where I leave the window or door open (when I&#039;m home during the day).  This, plus white roof tiles and 4&quot; fiberglass attic insulation, keep my air conditioning bills down in summer.

There are even wind-powered extractors, like little windmills, although they don&#039;t work when they are most needed, on hot, windless days.

The traditional Florida &quot;shotgun&quot; architecture kept houses cool in the pre-airconditioner era.  Tall ceilings with gable vents extracted rising hot air, and tall windows and crossing hallways allowed the wind to blow through the house  A porch on all but the N side of the house allowed bug-screened windows to be kept open but the sun and rain out, and the shady side of the house used overhanging shade shutters so those windows could be kept open even when it rained.  Tall oaks outside provided shade for the roof, but plenty of room for a ground breeze at ground level. The roof was usually tin, or Spanish tile, painted white for reflectivity. The house was built a foot or two off the ground for protection against flooding, as well as to allow air to circulate underneath.

The modern Florida House is a concrete box with tiny windows, and no porch or shutters, a black tarpaper roof makes central air mandatory.  The vegetation is all cut away to make construction faster, and to allow more lots per acre. When the power goes out, it is uninhabitable.

Fortunately, my place was built in 1969 so it still is fairly Florida friendly; white concrete tile roof (also 1969) and lots of big windows with clamshell storm shutters that double for sunshades. Nobody makes those concrete tile roofs any more, and I&#039;ve been offered a complete new roof if they can just have my old tiles.  I said no.  The concrete tiles will last forever if you periodically clean, paint and reseal them.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>is probably a simple extractor fan to pull out the hot air between the roof and the ceiling.  Most attics are already well supplied with vents for input. I&#8217;ve got an ordinary window fan jury rigged into the attic access port in the garage, the exhaust goes into the garage, where I leave the window or door open (when I&#8217;m home during the day).  This, plus white roof tiles and 4&#8243; fiberglass attic insulation, keep my air conditioning bills down in summer.</p>
<p>There are even wind-powered extractors, like little windmills, although they don&#8217;t work when they are most needed, on hot, windless days.</p>
<p>The traditional Florida &#8220;shotgun&#8221; architecture kept houses cool in the pre-airconditioner era.  Tall ceilings with gable vents extracted rising hot air, and tall windows and crossing hallways allowed the wind to blow through the house  A porch on all but the N side of the house allowed bug-screened windows to be kept open but the sun and rain out, and the shady side of the house used overhanging shade shutters so those windows could be kept open even when it rained.  Tall oaks outside provided shade for the roof, but plenty of room for a ground breeze at ground level. The roof was usually tin, or Spanish tile, painted white for reflectivity. The house was built a foot or two off the ground for protection against flooding, as well as to allow air to circulate underneath.</p>
<p>The modern Florida House is a concrete box with tiny windows, and no porch or shutters, a black tarpaper roof makes central air mandatory.  The vegetation is all cut away to make construction faster, and to allow more lots per acre. When the power goes out, it is uninhabitable.</p>
<p>Fortunately, my place was built in 1969 so it still is fairly Florida friendly; white concrete tile roof (also 1969) and lots of big windows with clamshell storm shutters that double for sunshades. Nobody makes those concrete tile roofs any more, and I&#8217;ve been offered a complete new roof if they can just have my old tiles.  I said no.  The concrete tiles will last forever if you periodically clean, paint and reseal them.</p>
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		<title>By: FrankC</title>
		<link>https://habitablezone.com/2012/07/29/anyone-have-a-radiant-barrier-in-their-attic/#comment-16808</link>
		<dc:creator>FrankC</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jul 2012 22:24:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://habitablezone.com/?p=19075#comment-16808</guid>
		<description>and as a result, I have read up on it some.

You can buy it cheaper at the big box stores and it probably helps some if you already have the basics, (energy efficient windows, R rating, energy efficient HVAC, and appliances). I don&#039;t believe it works as well as claimed and the reviews I have read seem to confirm this.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>and as a result, I have read up on it some.</p>
<p>You can buy it cheaper at the big box stores and it probably helps some if you already have the basics, (energy efficient windows, R rating, energy efficient HVAC, and appliances). I don&#8217;t believe it works as well as claimed and the reviews I have read seem to confirm this.</p>
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